More September Lucchese coming this weekend...

The monthly Antique market, one of the best in Tuscany is just on your doorstep on Saturday and Sunday: Giglio's square Cathedral's square, San Giusto,  San Giovanni,Via del Battistero, Via Donnino. Get lost with books, prints, medals, painting, statues, clothes and unusual tools...

If you get hungry in Piazza Napoleone there will be 2 markets dedicated to food: Flavours, Bread & Artisan instead, round the corner in Piazza San Michele, do not forget under the loggia the Local Winetasting open from 12 till 8pm everyday: 6€ for 4 glasses of wine.

Moreover on Sunday, you are invited to head outside the walls in Borgo Giannotti district for Saint Matthew traditional fair market. Great fun! 

Something that can satisfy both ladies and gentlemen will be the exhibition Motorbikes and Art (what a couple?!) in front of the Caffè delle Mura on the walls on Saturday. This morning I have seen some beautiful Harley Davidson arriving. 

I have never heard about this festival, maybe it is the first edition but it sounds very interesting: Histrionika Lucca 2014: street artists as jugglers, musicians, clowns, acrobats, puppeteers will meet in the basement of San Colombano bastion, just under the walls on Saturday from 5 till 11 pm. 

If you are looking for something more relaxing there is a concert in San Michele church on Saturday at 5.30 pm:  Symphony  n.2 “Lobgesang” by Felix Mendelsshon (ticket 10€)

Finally more a typical event related to the city is the The Big Crossbow Tournament taking place on the field outside Saint Peter bastion on Sunday from 3pm/3.30 pm: Lucca will face Pisa and Massa Marittima, you know very well who you have to support, right? Anyway, the event will have a parade first with drums, costumes and flag throwers. 

Fingers crossed for the weather and have a great weekend in Lucca!

Music, markets and marathon among the Lucca streets

Yesterday May 1st started with a nice sunny day here in Lucca, I hope that you enjoyed it with a stroll on the walls, a meal outside or an ice cream in a lively square of the city.

A new weekend is getting close, even if, since Easter it has been quite confusing to remember what day is it. 

Have you been told that Lucca is the city of Music? Here we go:

On Saturday at 21.15 in the St. Martin's Cathedral, there will be a free concert: the choir coming from the Anglican Church of St Georg in Paris. Its repertoire goes from Mozart, Haydn, Schubert, Dvorak, Stravinsky, Lennox-Berkeley a Palestrina, Victoria, Byrd, Tallis, Lassus. The choir's director is Peter Hicks, Simon Lawford will play the organ and the solo parts will be of Lucie Louvrier. 

This is the second event of a very important festival for the city called Sagra Musicale Lucchese, this is the 51st edition and it involves the most beautiful churches in and outside Lucca.

More free music on Saturday night at 21.15 will be in Santa Maria's Corteorlandini church, the unique baroque church in town. The Santa Felicita group will perform the traditional holy music concert with a tribute to Giacomo Puccini. 

Another genre of music, jazz will be the protagonist the next following days. On the walls, at the San Regolo's bulwark on Saturday will open the photo exhibition "Do your remember Chet? Chet Baker in Lucca" 

Did you know that this great trumpet player was imprisoned here? Exactly in that jail that you can see walking on the walls. 

The exhibition opening times: from May 4th to 9th in the afternoon 16-20. Free entrance. 

Ladies: 3 markets for you!! 

The weekly local market on Saturday morning (9-13) in Via dei Bacchettoni, then:

still on May 3rd for the entire day, the area of Piazza San Martino - Piazza San Giovanni - Piazza Del Giglio - Piazza XX Settembre will be full of clothes, shoes, kitchenware, sweets, plants and flowers and a little bit of everything.
It is the market, the fair for The May Cross. It is as you can imagine, a religious occasion celebrated almost everywhere in Italy to remember the finding of Jesus's cross. Elena, Costantino's wife, found it on the Calvary mountain. (Mass will be at 9, 10.30 and 19 in the Cathedral) 

It is a very ancient tradition, do not confuse it with the Holy Face (Volto Santo) feast, which is in September and it is just a Lucchese event. 



You can continue your shopping in San Paolino district (Via di Poggio, Piazza dei Cocomeri, Piazza Cittadella) at the Arts & Talent market, (Sat&Sun 9-20). It is a small market but they have sometimes some interesting objects with a medieval taste. 

Sunday morning, instead will be the first time for the Lucca Half Marathon! Go and support the runners! The itinerary will be mainly inside the city: the start will be at Porta Elisa, then Piazza Santa Maria, Fillungo, outside the walls and then back to arrive at Porta San Gervasio. There are about 1.200 runners!! 

Again you can attend a Golf Competition this weekend outside the walls. There will be two croquet lawns close to the San Donato's Bulwark where international players will compete. 

I think that if the sun will shine a day trip to Viareggio can be fun, it is only 30 mins by train from Lucca. From the railway station you can easily walk to the Passeggiata, the long promenade along the seaside full of shops, liberty buildings and beach clubs. 

This time of the year the beach is getting ready with umbrellas and sun beds, the view on the Apuan Alps will be beautiful. 

You can stop at the pier where all the luxurious yachts and sail boats are parked to enjoy some Italian fish&chips at La Barchina.

You will probably have to queue a little bit because it is delicious and very well known! 

Then if you will reach almost the end of the Passeggiata at the Principe di Piemonte hotel conference room you can enjoy a craft beer at the festival: Il senso della Birra  

Finally, if you have already planned your weekend away from Lucca and you will head towards Florence, do not miss the Gelato Festival at the Palazzo dei Congressi gardens, just opposite Santa Maria Novella train station. Admire the ice cream masters and their delightful creations! Yummy!! :)

This weekend there's something to suit everybody's fancy in Lucca

If you are already in Lucca maybe walking around San Frediano's church and the Amphitheater, you have noticed that something is going on... What are these workers doing?

They are arranging a beautiful flower carpet in front of the church and a flower market in the roman square that will start on Fri, 25th April to celebrate a special personality in town: Saint Zita.

If you have not meet her yet, go inside the church and you will see her in the first chapel on your right as soon as you come in. There she is in a glass case on the main altar, surrounded by paintings to highlight her miracles and the most important episodes of her life.

The lucchese inhabitants are still very attached to her. She is the copatron saint of the city and there will be a Mass to commemorate her the day she died April 27, 1278 but also the flower and plan market. Why flowers you are probably wondering? Because one of the miracle she performed was to transform the breadcrumbs and food leftover hidden in the her apron in many many beautiful daffodils.

Do not miss the market as there are some amazing flower decorations!

Then if you are looking for a unique souvenir from Lucca, something to remind you this holiday go to the Arts&Crafts Market in San Giusto's square (April, 25-26-27). Here you will find lot of ideas, all absolutely hand made and original: jewels, ceramic, leather, pictures, clothes, home accessories etc...
I remember last year a guest came especially for this market, that takes place the last weekend of the month, so that she could buy all her Christmas presents here!

It can seem too much of a coincidence but this weekend we will also celebrate two different Liberation/Independence day.

The first one, on April 25th, it is more connected with the Italian history. April 25, 1945 it is generally considered the end of the World War II in our country, the end of the German/Nazi occupation (on that day the American troops released Milan and Turin). Since 1946 it ha been proclaimed public holiday: so offices, banks, schools, factories will be closed. I believe that most of the stores in Lucca will be opened, at least in the afternoon. But if you have to catch a train or a bus make sure you check the right schedule.

For the first time in Lucca, this year, there will be a cooperation to realize a War Resistance Itineray. If you interested in this subject you will find in town in Via Sant'Andrea the Liberation Museum, which is slowly reopening with new sections. (Time: 10-13 and 14-19), in Borgo a Mozzano instead you can find the open air museum of the Gothic Line (Time 10-13): the fortifications, bunkers, tunnels, emplacements and anti-tank defense built by the German army. Finally, if you happen to be in this area, near Barga, there is the Sommocolonia Museum (time 10-13 and afternoon). This village is known for the Christmas Battle, the only battle fought in the Serchio Valley. The movie director Spike Lee got inspired by this event for his film Miracle at St.Anna's in 2008. The allies were stopped in a long action by the German troops for almost the entire winter season, they will have to wait for the spring to be able to cross the Apennines mountains and reach the north of Italy.






The second Liberation celebrated this weekend is related to the history of the city. And you are very lucky to be here if you like medieval festivals!

It is called Domenica in Albis, as it is the first Sunday after Easter. April 8th, 1369 (first Sunday after Easter) marked the end of the Pisan Domination thanks to the Emperor Charles IV. From that moment the word LIBERTAS was placed on the city red and white coat of arms and a little bit everywhere. They will follow 430 years of independent and autonomous Republic, till Napoleon's arrival, and this will make the most of what Lucca is today.

Here is the program for Sunday, take a note:

10.00 Historical Parade (flag wavers, drummers and medieval characters) on the main street to the Cathedral to attend the Mass at 10.30.
At then end of the Mass, the Ordination Ceremony for the Gonfalonier of the district according to the 1370 Statute (Lucca was divided in three districts, called Terziere, likewise the Contrada in Siena).

14.30 Outisde the St. Peter's Bulwark (close to Porta Elisa or Porta San Jacopo) a great event: The National Medieval Crossbow tournament. It is amazing!

16.00 Historical Parade till St. Michele's square - Announcements Reading and the parade will continue to St.Martin's square where there will be two flag wavers shows, then back to St. Frediano

17.45 Changing the Guard at Saint Zita, drums greeting and final flag wavers show.

If you need to do some activity, then you will find at the San Frediano Bulwark, the Lucca International Golf Open Pitch & Putt (Sat 26 and Sun 27) There will be competitions, but also the chance to learn and try for free this sport with instructors on the walls. After the workout in the Real Collegio you can find some relax with a winetasting, gala dinner, cocktails, an exhibition and much more...

In case you will rather do something else in the surrounding area you can find: 

- Enolia in Seravezza on Sat&Sun, if you do not have a car you can take a train to Forte dei Marmi and then there will be a free shuttle bus to the event. Inside the Medici Palace you can taste several Extra Virgin Olive Oils produced all over Italy, you can do an evo tasting course to learn the many features or you can simply enjoy many typical products as salumi, cheese, bread and so on. Even this year a new product will be introduced: I Servanti, cold cuts preserved with wax. 

- if you are passionate about white wines, do not miss Montecarlo White Wines at Palazzo Pellegrini-Carmignani in Montecarlo from 15 o'clock on Saturday and Sunday.

- the last suggestion is the Marcia delle Ville, on Sunday 27, an incredible itinerary (3.5, 7, 10, 16, 23, 28km you can choose your favourite distance) discovering the most beautiful villas in the lucchese countryside: Mansi, Torrigiani, Lazzareschi, Reale, Guinigi and now and then you will have places to rest and to eat something. 

Art, nature, food, markets and some workout... any better idea? Have fun in Lucca! 

Weekly Market in Lucca and a Recipe

The last couple of posts were dedicated to Viareggio and Florence, this week let's stay in Lucca and go shopping at the market!

Unfortunately it was very cloudy and grey :(

In Italy, this is one of the experience I suggest you to do: go to a local market wherever you are to see the daily life, for "people watching", to find good bargain and of course, it is a lot of fun!! I love it! For me, it is very unlikely to leave without a bag, even a small one.

I have my strategy: have a look first to the whole market, ask for prices, see if there is anything nice and then on the way back I start to buy!

Usually the stall people do not accept credit cards, so make sure you have enough cash with you. 

You can try things on, but do not be too fussy ;) you are not in a shop so they do not have proper fitting rooms, so you will have to jump inside a van and get undressed on it (doors closed of course!), try on and look at yourself in a very simple mirror. 

You can ask for a different size, not everything is one size only. They might have it or not, their stock is not fully supplied as in a store.

If I am buying more things from the same stall, I try sometimes to bargain a little bit. People do not get offended, but remember they are not obliged to give you a discount. Prices are already quite cheap!

Keep an eye where you see lot of people around a stall, it can mean that there is a good offer or nice stuff. Then be patient, brave and curious and start to throw clothes up and down, go around the stall in every corner! It is  like a treasure hunt, keep searching and searching...

I've found 3 lovely summer dresses here for 10€ each :)

They had lot of things in silk and linen

A tip: while you will be busy searching, if you find something you like, put it on a side next to you, or ask the stall man to keep it for you for a sec. You do not want that, after all you efforts finding that lovely t shirt under many layers of clothes, it get taken by someone else, do you??

A last suggestion: in the last few years the Chinese have some stalls, too. Their prices are very low, but quality is not good at all. I mean it is good looking but after a few washings it's gone. So just think about it!

At last keep your purse in front of you all the times! These places are quite busy, with people pushing you and pickpockets know that you are busy searching, so be careful! 

The local weekly market in Lucca:

when: every Wednesday and Saturday in the morning from 9 to 12.

where: from outside Porta San Jacopo  then along Via dei Bacchettoni till Porta Elisa 

What can you find there? A little bit of everything:

Food can not be missing!

Flowers and plants

Leather: shoes and bags, purses...

Kitchen and homeware: 

Do you know all these tools?

Many many clothes and accessories...

This is one of my favourite place to stop. This is Bagnoli. It is a beautiful grocery store in Viareggio, but they do also local markets. In Lucca you can find him only on Wednesday. The van is close to Porta San Jacopo.

They have several kinds of cheese from all over Italy, really special ones! Lots of mortadella, prosciutto and salami and sausages...Then bread as Pane di Vinca, coming from a small village in Lunigiana, Massa Carrara province.

Pane di Vinca and a super multicereal focaccia! 

They can make you a sandwich right away. The walls are very close, just above you, so you can go there and relax after all your shopping!

Try these onions cooked in the wine: they are as sweet as cherries! I love them!! 

Isn't this gorgonzola tempting?

This was my shopping and my yummy lunch:

Cereal focaccia as you can see there's already bite ;)
mustia ricotta and Tropea onions 

Pasta with Mustia, Tomatoes, Rucola and Nuts.

Mustia is a salted, smoked ricotta cheese typical of Sardinia.

While you are waiting for the water to boil, you can melt the mustia in a dish adding a little bit of hot water ad mash it with a fork. It has to become soft and thick as a cream, not too liquid.

Add a little bit of extra virgin olive oil and some Parmesan cheese.

Cut some cherry tomatoes and put them together with the mustia ricotta, keep mixing everything together. You can add some salt and black pepper, if you like. Be careful the mustia is already quite tasty, so check it before! It can be already fine.

Throw pasta in the boiling water with a little bit of salt and leave the dish with the mustia and tomatoes on top of your pan to keep it warm.

In the meantime cut some rocket salad (rucola) and some nuts.

When the pasta is al dente and you have drained it, you can add the mustia with tomatoes, the rucola and the nuts. Mix, Mix for a few minutes and Buon Appetito!!

you can turf off the stove, you can mix it easily in the warm pot 

Buon Appetito!