It was 2 years ago when I first came to Lucca.
A short visit to Tuscany was coming to an end with an overnight stop there. My friend and I were both delighted and disappointed as we walked around Lucca. The disappointment was the fact that we had so little time in a place that clearly deserved much more!
The next morning, however, news broke about the volcanic ash cloud covering Europe, and we realised that we were stranded in Lucca. With an extra six days to explore the city, our first impressions were confirmed - Lucca is a beautiful, interesting, magical place.
I knew I would return.
This Easter, my sister, niece, nephew and I rented the Tornese Apartment, in Le Scuderie della Cavallerizza. The booking process was smooth and straightforward, and with Debora’s care and efficiency, we were confident we’d made the right choice.
The accommodation is extremely comfortable, a renovation of very high quality with everything we needed to ensure a relaxing holiday. Breakfast on the terrace overlooking the walls was a real treat, and my niece and nephew loved having the bikes to ride around Lucca. From a convenient location in Piazza Santa Maria, we could set out each day either up onto the walls or through the streets to uncover more of Lucca's treasures and charms.
This time, I was pleased to discover the house where Puccini was born is now open to the public. How exciting it was to see his piano, read his letters and look up into the attic that inspired La Boheme.
Some things haven't changed like the nightly concerts in San Giovanni church to keep alive the music of Puccini and other operatic composers. This is one of the pleasures of Lucca, as is humming the tunes along Fillungo on the way back.
The walls of Lucca are amazing both in their original construction and in the part they play in modern Lucchese life. It is a joy to take part in the passegiata around the walls, joining the joggers, dog-walkers, cyclists and other visitors.
A stroll through the little streets and alleyways is rewarded time and again with exquisite architecture and breathtaking beauty. We came upon many unforgettable churches, palaces, cafes and views as we sought to leave no part of Lucca undiscovered.
Some specific things we enjoyed were as follows. The Guinigi Tower is worth the climb to get your bearings and see Lucca from another angle. The trees at the top are an added fascination.
The Cathedral Museum is a brilliant resource, giving a taste of Lucca's rich history.
The Botanical Gardens and the Pfanner Palace and Gardens are both delightfully peaceful spaces, carefully maintained as is Lucca generally.
One of the things Debora arranged was a guided tour of Lucca with her colleague, Maria. Maria’s detailed knowledge of Lucca and her expertise in the history of art combined to provide many insights into the city and its cultural heritage. This was an enjoyable morning during which I learned so much.
From Lucca it is easy to make day trips to other cities. We visited Florence and Pisa. The train service is reliable and inexpensive, and Lucca train station is a short walk outside the walls.
I'm sure there is even more to learn and enjoy about Lucca, and I am determined to come back and find out.
