Settembre Lucchese... you will not forget it!

I know it is the end of the summer and for most of the people this means back to work, to school and to the daily routine but the Lucchese people have one more reason to put off the arrival of the Autumn and you are very lucky to be in Lucca this month, because the city will be magical...

Markets of any kinds will be all around, concerts, exhibitions, competitions and the amusement park, the funfair outside the walls... but the main big event will be on the night of September 13th: The Luminara of The Holy Face (Il Volto Santo), an incredible candlelight religious procession through the medieval streets and amazing fireworks at the end. 

It is a very special day, you will feel the identity of Lucca and its inhabitants. Not only the parish churches are coming to pay homage to the legendary crucifix but also the mayors from all the surrounding villages, the medieval costumes, the representatives of the local banks, offices, lawyers, artisans, policemen, soldiers, the Lucchese people emigrated all over and more... so just to give you and idea that the parade is going to be long long and long. 

And wherever they will pass, the palaces will be lightened by a myriad of candles. I am sure you have noticed the buzz around town in the last few days with the cranes assembling the iron frames around the windows, the doors and the arches...just imagine how it is going to be in the dark!

The procession will start at 20.00 o'clock from San Frediano's church and then will cross Via Fillungo, Piazza San Michele, Via Vittorio Veneto, Piazza Napoleone and it will end at St. Martin's Cathedral. This is the route, you can decide the follow the long procession or you can simply stay along the main street or in a square. Be prepared because it is going to be very busy everywhere!!

Once the parade will arrive at the Cathedral, there will be the Blessing and the Mottetone will be played: a mottetto with 8 voices, instruments, two trumpets and two horns composed by Giacomo Puccini's great grand father. For you it will be time to run back to the high terrace of your apartment or to the walls (between San Donato's gate to Santa Maria's gate - orange line on the map above) to see the wonderful show of the fireworks at 23.30.

The Settembre Lucchese is traditionally important for its markets from Saturday till the end of the month you will find a small one in Piazza Napoleone. On Sunday (Sept 14th) all day long the entire district of Borgo Giannotti, just outside Porta Santa Maria, will have a great fair.





Here do as the locals... grab a piece of Croccante (it is a nougat made usually with almond and caramel or a Bombolone/doughnut :)

My dears fashion and shopping addicted Villa Bottini is your must do this weekend, here you can find Fashion in Flair, an exhibition with the best Made in Italy for clothes, jewellery, shoes and furniture.

If you get very thirsty do not forget that under the Palazzo Pretorio in Piazza San Michele everyday you can find Lucca winetasting with all the main local producers.

Really, you could not choose a better time to stay in Lucca!

San Paolino celebrations: the patron Saint of Lucca

Each town tiny village in Italy has its own patron saint and when it comes to celebrate him or her a Holy Mass is not enough, so that's what will happen in Lucca for San Paolino days.

First of all, let me introduce you San Paolino. According to the tradition he was the first bishop of the city, we do not know much about his life. Perhaps he was sent to Lucca by Saint Peter to christianize the population during roman times. He died around the I century a.C.

Anyway, the devotion towards him started later on in the Middle Ages. In 1261 the San Giorgio church was destroyed to build the second ring of walls and some relics came to light.

On July 12, 1664 the miracle happened: lot of people were on the walls to celebrate the saint waiting for the cannon shot. Something went wrong, the cannon was supposed to be loaded with blanks, instead it actually fired a spray of gunfire in the direction of some people that was there to attend the event.
Luckily or miraculously San Paolino's intervention saved them, nobody was injured!

This episode is represented on a painting by Gian Domenico Lombardi that you can admire in San Paolino's church. It is also an interesting document of the walls and of the society of the 18th century.


So Saturday 12, all day long on the San Donato bastion on the walls (west side of the city) there will be artillery shots, historical costumes and games.

At 17.30 in front of the San Paolino church a prize will be given to the best Torta co' Becchi, which is a typical cake, go there maybe you will get a bite and be part of the jury!

At 18.30 the Archbishop will celebrate the Holy Mass and during the cerimony the Mayor will offer the big candle to protect the city of Lucca and its inhabitants.

Tonight at 21.30 do not miss the main event: The Crossbow Tournament in the Cathedral Square (San Martino) to win the Palio, a silk banner.
The competition still follows the 1443 rules, the city is divided in 3 teams according to the districts:
San Paolino
San Martino
San Salvatore

On Sunday be back on the walls on San Frediano platform to attend the artillery, historical parades, dances, flags and more...

Breathe the past times: roman and medieval event in Lucca and around

I would be happier if I could tell you "Let's meet tonight in the square to see the football match!" 

Instead, Italy is out and to be honest with you we deserve it. Anyway, I still like to follow the World Cup now that is getting close to final game.



Here are the schedules and channels if you like it to watch in your comfortable LuccaHolidayHomes with a glass of Prosecco, otherwise there are plenty of bars in town which they have wide screen outside i.e Pult in Via Fillungo, Bar Zero in Via San Paolino, Rewine in Via Calderia, most of the bars in the Anfiteatro square.

Argentina - Belgium Saturday 05 at 18.00 on Sky Italia (this match is on pay tv, so you will have to see it at the bar) 

Netherlands - CostaRica Saturday 05 at 22.00 on RaiSport 1 (channel 57 of your house tv)

Then on Tuesday 8 July: Brazil -Germany at 22.00 on RaiSport1 (channel 57 of your house tv)


Ladies, do not panic the summer sales will start today, so you can shop till you drop in Via Fillungo or wherever you will go in Florence or Pisa... some good bargains are waiting for you!



Then again on Thursday (July 10) it will be shopping night in Lucca so the stores will be opened even after dinner till midnight!


An idea if you have a car this weekend (Saturday and Sunday) is to go to a great event in Versilia, so that you can spend the day in Viareggio at the beach or just walking on the promenade or on the pier and then later on you can move a little but further up on the hill, towards Massaciuccoli, for an amazing Roman festival.

In this village there is an interesting archaeological site where you can see the remains of a roman villa and of the thermal baths. For the event you will be in a real roman village with the military camp, barbarians, gladiators. You will eat roman food based on the Apicio recipes', you can have your roman make up done, you can dress as roman or learn to fight...then music, dances and markets and much more...

The festival starts at 17.00 till midnight. Ticket 7€

Have a look at the website to see last year edition. I am sure you will be impressed!


If you decide anyway to stay local or to give you our best welcome on Sunday even in Lucca there's something to make you breathe the medieval times: The National Crossbow Tournament.

At 16.30 the event will start with an historical parade: drummers, soldiers, dancers, archery, flag wavers, traditional costumes will leave from the east side of the city (via del Bastardo) and will cross Via Fillungo, Piazza Bernardini, Via della Trombe to end in Piazzale Arrigoni (behind the San Martino cathedral, on the walls side)


At 17.00 the tournament will begin. 15 players for each city team: San Marino, Massa Marittima and Lucca will compete for the Silver Cup. Then the three best players of each team will do another competition to gain the title of Crossbow King. 

Off course, I can not forget music and concerts:

• on Saturday night at 21.00 in the basement of the walls at San Regolo bulwark, the students of Boccherini school will perform.
• on Monday night, second appointment with the Lucca Summer Festival offers An Evening of Guitars in Piazza Napoleone 
• on Thursday night you have two options: still in Piazza Napoleone you can dance with The Prodigy or you can relax with a Piano Recital at the enchanting Oratorio degli Angeli Custodi. 
• then on Friday at the Botanical Garden, there is a special event, you pay only 3€ ticket and you can join the guided tour at 18.30 and then be back at 21.00 for the concert Arts under the tree - Italian and Southamerican Music. 

Finally, I would like to dedicate this funny video to all our American guests as yesterday they celebrated the 4th of July!

Weekly Market in Lucca and a Recipe

The last couple of posts were dedicated to Viareggio and Florence, this week let's stay in Lucca and go shopping at the market!

Unfortunately it was very cloudy and grey :(

In Italy, this is one of the experience I suggest you to do: go to a local market wherever you are to see the daily life, for "people watching", to find good bargain and of course, it is a lot of fun!! I love it! For me, it is very unlikely to leave without a bag, even a small one.

I have my strategy: have a look first to the whole market, ask for prices, see if there is anything nice and then on the way back I start to buy!

Usually the stall people do not accept credit cards, so make sure you have enough cash with you. 

You can try things on, but do not be too fussy ;) you are not in a shop so they do not have proper fitting rooms, so you will have to jump inside a van and get undressed on it (doors closed of course!), try on and look at yourself in a very simple mirror. 

You can ask for a different size, not everything is one size only. They might have it or not, their stock is not fully supplied as in a store.

If I am buying more things from the same stall, I try sometimes to bargain a little bit. People do not get offended, but remember they are not obliged to give you a discount. Prices are already quite cheap!

Keep an eye where you see lot of people around a stall, it can mean that there is a good offer or nice stuff. Then be patient, brave and curious and start to throw clothes up and down, go around the stall in every corner! It is  like a treasure hunt, keep searching and searching...

I've found 3 lovely summer dresses here for 10€ each :)

They had lot of things in silk and linen

A tip: while you will be busy searching, if you find something you like, put it on a side next to you, or ask the stall man to keep it for you for a sec. You do not want that, after all you efforts finding that lovely t shirt under many layers of clothes, it get taken by someone else, do you??

A last suggestion: in the last few years the Chinese have some stalls, too. Their prices are very low, but quality is not good at all. I mean it is good looking but after a few washings it's gone. So just think about it!

At last keep your purse in front of you all the times! These places are quite busy, with people pushing you and pickpockets know that you are busy searching, so be careful! 

The local weekly market in Lucca:

when: every Wednesday and Saturday in the morning from 9 to 12.

where: from outside Porta San Jacopo  then along Via dei Bacchettoni till Porta Elisa 

What can you find there? A little bit of everything:

Food can not be missing!

Flowers and plants

Leather: shoes and bags, purses...

Kitchen and homeware: 

Do you know all these tools?

Many many clothes and accessories...

This is one of my favourite place to stop. This is Bagnoli. It is a beautiful grocery store in Viareggio, but they do also local markets. In Lucca you can find him only on Wednesday. The van is close to Porta San Jacopo.

They have several kinds of cheese from all over Italy, really special ones! Lots of mortadella, prosciutto and salami and sausages...Then bread as Pane di Vinca, coming from a small village in Lunigiana, Massa Carrara province.

Pane di Vinca and a super multicereal focaccia! 

They can make you a sandwich right away. The walls are very close, just above you, so you can go there and relax after all your shopping!

Try these onions cooked in the wine: they are as sweet as cherries! I love them!! 

Isn't this gorgonzola tempting?

This was my shopping and my yummy lunch:

Cereal focaccia as you can see there's already bite ;)
mustia ricotta and Tropea onions 

Pasta with Mustia, Tomatoes, Rucola and Nuts.

Mustia is a salted, smoked ricotta cheese typical of Sardinia.

While you are waiting for the water to boil, you can melt the mustia in a dish adding a little bit of hot water ad mash it with a fork. It has to become soft and thick as a cream, not too liquid.

Add a little bit of extra virgin olive oil and some Parmesan cheese.

Cut some cherry tomatoes and put them together with the mustia ricotta, keep mixing everything together. You can add some salt and black pepper, if you like. Be careful the mustia is already quite tasty, so check it before! It can be already fine.

Throw pasta in the boiling water with a little bit of salt and leave the dish with the mustia and tomatoes on top of your pan to keep it warm.

In the meantime cut some rocket salad (rucola) and some nuts.

When the pasta is al dente and you have drained it, you can add the mustia with tomatoes, the rucola and the nuts. Mix, Mix for a few minutes and Buon Appetito!!

you can turf off the stove, you can mix it easily in the warm pot 

Buon Appetito!