The monthly Antique market, one of the best in Tuscany is just on your doorstep on Saturday and Sunday: Giglio's square Cathedral's square, San Giusto, San Giovanni,Via del Battistero, Via Donnino. Get lost with books, prints, medals, painting, statues, clothes and unusual tools...
If you get hungry in Piazza Napoleone there will be 2 markets dedicated to food: Flavours, Bread & Artisan instead, round the corner in Piazza San Michele, do not forget under the loggia the Local Winetasting open from 12 till 8pm everyday: 6€ for 4 glasses of wine.
Moreover on Sunday, you are invited to head outside the walls in Borgo Giannotti district for Saint Matthew traditional fair market. Great fun!
Something that can satisfy both ladies and gentlemen will be the exhibition Motorbikes and Art (what a couple?!) in front of the Caffè delle Mura on the walls on Saturday. This morning I have seen some beautiful Harley Davidson arriving.
I have never heard about this festival, maybe it is the first edition but it sounds very interesting: Histrionika Lucca 2014: street artists as jugglers, musicians, clowns, acrobats, puppeteers will meet in the basement of San Colombano bastion, just under the walls on Saturday from 5 till 11 pm.
If you are looking for something more relaxing there is a concert in San Michele church on Saturday at 5.30 pm: Symphony n.2 “Lobgesang” by Felix Mendelsshon (ticket 10€)
Finally more a typical event related to the city is the The Big Crossbow Tournament taking place on the field outside Saint Peter bastion on Sunday from 3pm/3.30 pm: Lucca will face Pisa and Massa Marittima, you know very well who you have to support, right? Anyway, the event will have a parade first with drums, costumes and flag throwers.
Fingers crossed for the weather and have a great weekend in Lucca!
How many miles have you done in your excursions in Lucca, Florence, Siena or wherever during your stay in Italy?
Did you expect it? I believe you can be tired but hopefully you are even more satisfied of your efforts. Was it worthy to see that Cathedral, that tower or that square, wasn't it?
Now think for a minute how it could have been in the past, in medieval times: no trains, no cars, no planes... just your two feet and stick. You would have been called nor a traveler, neither a tourist, but a pilgrim.
That's the main event this weekend in Lucca:the Via Francigena, a medieval route 1600 km
long from Canterbury to Rome.
For three days the city will become again a place where the pilgrims can find a shelter, a place to rest, to have some food and something to drink, so that the day after they can continue their path towards Rome. Don't get wrong they won't stay in a hotel or in a b&b, but there will be some lucchese family that will open the door of their houses, exactly how it was in the past.
On Saturday at 12.00 you can attend the opening of the new museum dedicated to the Via Francigena on walls at The Headman's House on the San Salvatore bulwark.The pilgrims will have lunch later in San Francesco square.
On Sunday evening at 21.00 to end the event there will be a free concert in San Michele's church with a choir and an orchestra: The Masters of the Saint Cecilia Chapel (Cathedral of Lucca) between 1800 and 1900".
A quite unusual and interesting even this weekend is held in Camaiore, a village in the Versilia area, that you can easily reach by train or by bus from Lucca.
Long coloured sawdust carpets called "pula" in dialect will cover the centre to celebrate the religious Corpus Domini. The artisans need usually some months to prepare them: choosing the theme, that can be religious, social, geometrical or flower decoration, then they have to select the colours and finally they can do the mixture of sawdust and aniline. These carpets can be 200 meters long.
Probably this tradition has started in the 1800, the Borbone family used to do these carpets with flowers to welcome their noble guests. Later on sawdust has replaced the flowrers.
The Camaiore artisans are very proud about this event. They stay awake all the night before to arrange them and so you have to be there quite quickly on Sunday morning because during the day the procession will walk on them... As everything that it is beautiful, they are ephemeral.
Tomorrow Summer will officially start and Tuscany has decided to welcome the Solstice with many events in the whole region. From Florence to Pisa, Lucca to Siena please check this website for the program. Unfortunately, I have to admit the city of Lucca itself has not proposed so much, so you might better check the province as Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi or other cities as Florence, Siena and Pisa.
Have a great weekend and on Tuesday at 18.00 you'd better support the Italian football team! ;)
Last but not least do not forget to have a look at the Guinness World Recorddinner on the walls on Friday!
This will be a long weekend for the Italians, most of them if the weather will be good, they will decide to leave the city for a trip nearby or to start the sunbathing season in one of the closest beaches...so you might fight the city completely empty of Lucchese and full of tourists.
On June 2nd we celebrate the Republic Day, this it falls on Monday and so that's why there is the chance to have some days off. Banks, offices, post and schools will be closed, but do not worry all the restaurants and some groceries stores will be opened. If you plan to use the public transport, bus or train, remember that they run on Sunday service and you might find some traffic on the roads.
The meaning of the day goes back to 1946, when through a referendum Italy had to decide to be a monarchy or a republic, so it is a similar day to the American 4th of July.
For a few years the celebrations have been canceled, it was an ordinary working day. Then thanks to the president, Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, it has been revalued. He believed that the Italians needed to consider a little bit more their history and especially to give them a stronger patriotic feeling.
Let's say that the major event takes place in Rome which is a military parade dedicated each year to a theme. The Frecce Tricolori (literally, the Tricolour Arrows) will fly in the sky for a great aerobatic demonstration.
Recently because of the economic crisis and the spending review, the celebrations were reduced, there was a big discussion how necessary and important it is to spend so much public money for a day.
Let's see what they are going to do this year! Usually in the morning after 10, the first national channel RAI broadcasts the event.
Even here in Lucca there will be some celebrations in Cortile degli Svizzeri, that is just inside the Palazzo Ducale in Napoleon's square.
The city centre, Piazza Napoleone, will host for the first time the Lucca Vegan Festival: shows, market and meetings dedicated to this world and some restaurants will offer a special menus on these days May 31, June 1st and 2nd.
If you happen to be in this area, on Saturday night at 21.00, there will be a concert, which is part of the event Sinfonia a Palazzo. The Bruchsal Orchestra composed by 55 musicians will perform a tribute to Sonja Pahor. Free entrance for the event located in the Ademollo Room
Instead if you want to do as the locals, move towards the seaside in Versilia, do not forget your sun lotion and if it gets too hot, you can go shopping at one of the best market for designers, brands and much more in the nearby:
Here the high class ladies from all over Italy come quite often during the summer to find the best bargains
A more classical market is the Antique Market in Pietrasanta (Sunday June 1st 9-19). It is an easy trip by train from Lucca and you will discover a beautiful village which considered a contemporary Athens. Many artists come to work here in the marble and bronze workshops, just here they can find the most skillful and experienced stone workers.
Some days ago I found on my door mat a free copy of a famous and old Italian newspaper, Il Corriere della Sera. Then I noticed they were a little bit everywhere in town, I do not really know the reason, maybe just advertising. It is a special edition with a positive message dedicated to Italy and to the Italians that are struggling to make something of their life, that are having success in business or in their personal life.
A journalist Beppe Severgnini, which also writes for the New York Times, has just recently made a kind of survey online and has selected 100 reasons we are happy to be Italians and to love Italy.
It is still a difficult period for everybody in the world because of the economic crisis and other matters. I do not know what your media reports you about Italy, but anyway I am almost sure that it is not an idyllic picture.
I would like to share with you some of these reasons to make you smile, laugh and reflect and be happy to have come to visit a beautiful country.
Because we’re intelligent, when we’re not too smart for our own good
Because we’re intuitive, if we can avoid being superficial
Because we’re direct, although we can be impulsive
Because we’re unpredictable, as long as we’re not careless
Because no one else is so skillful at turning a crisis into a party
We have good manners and do good things (unfortunately we struggle to translate them into good conduct)
Because we have good taste. We instinctively recognize beauty
Because, now and again, we put aesthetics before ethics. It’s wrong, but it’s fun to watch
Because we’re interesting. Tourists, business travelers and Angel Merkel are never bored with Italians around.
Because people everywhere look at you. In Italy, they see you
Because the countryside is a sentimental education (north)
Because life can be uphill and downhill (center)
Because the world is a colorful idea (south)
Because history left its mark
Because Milan is our America, the land of opportunity
Because Trieste is the south of the north, the north of the south, the east of the west and the west of the east
Because Venice makes tourists think they’re poets
Because Genoa smiles and shows her teeth to the sea
Because Florence and Turin have woken up
Because Naples and Bari turn their backs on each other, respectfully
Because Calabria’s heat is exhilarating
Because in Sicily the shortest line between two points is an arabesque (with thanks to Ennio Flaiano)
Because Sardinia has a huge heart and immense patience
Because there is a north and a south, just like in the United States. Look up Scarlett O’Hara in Matera. She might be called Samantha, but she’ll be there
Because on some days, the Lombardy sky is bluer than the Italian national team’s jersey
Because we have our head in Europe, our midriff exposed and our feet dangling in the sea
Because summer’s hot and winter’s cold so we can cool off or warm up, and complain
Because we have lindens in our gardens, firs in the mountains and poppies in the fields.
Because at a certain time of year, the Alps slip off their cloak of snow and let you take a good look
Because soccer is a sport, now and again
Because everybody has played soccer
Because the flavors of our ice cream are almost metaphysical – puffo (smurf), amarissimo (as bitter as it gets), basil
Because life goes on in trains; albeit slowly, if it’s a local service
Because in airports at dawn, Italy looks like a quiet, tidy country
Because not all outdoor entertainment is entertaining, but they’re all outdoor
Because we can dance at parties without getting drunk
Because in Italian hotels, they know who you are, and remember
Because our restaurants are staffed by men and women, not robots
Because we have sea, mountains, hills, plains, romantic towns, fragrant islands, fast-flowing rivers and great lakes. Obviously, we don’t have a Grand Canyon or Great Wall. But we’re working on that
Because Italians have painted, sculpted, narrated, sung, acted, furnished and clothed life
Because we discovered America by chance
Because ancient Rome was a great power and modern Rome can be great fun
Because Italian families are hotels, restaurants, banks, insurance companies, kindergartens and care homes for the elderly (they even survive Family Day)
Because Americans go into therapy, but we sit and talk with our kids during dinner
Because we put bread, love and imagination on the table
Because we have taught the world how to eat. Well, perhaps not the whole world, but certainly the French, the British and the Americans
Because we have converted the planet to cappuccino, and in Italy no one gets refused a coffee
Because we invented the pizza, the Vespa, the Fiat 500, the Olivetti Lettera 22 typewriter and coats for women. When we keep things simple, nobody does things better
Because plenty of people criticize us, but everyone copies us
Because our country churches are better than some defenders of the faith
Because we have Europe’s youngest head of government and who knows what he’ll get up to
Because we have Europe’s oldest President and we all know what he has accomplished
Because sometimes we fly the flag back to front (red to the left?), but we still love it
Because we draft laws so complicated we sometimes forget to observe them
Because we are overindulgent with crooks and swindlers, but we spot them right away
Because we have The Great Beauty that won an Oscar and do the little goodnesses that make the world go round
Because we have a national health service, public schools and the Carabinieri
Because doctors, nurses, teachers and police officers work hard for little reward
Because there’s always someone trying to keep someone else’s spirits up
Because we only turn on the air con when it’s needed
Because we can think with our hands
Because the fields never look bored
Because around Bologna and Modena, we make romantic precision automobiles
Because Veneto is our Texas
Because they copy our coffee and pizza in Memphis, but we make their Jeeps in Melfi.
Because the undergrads at Pavia study under magnolias and wisteria
Because every laboratory in the world has a computer, a green plant and an Italian (but send us the Italian back some time)
Because some small towns along the main roads are so ugly you can’t help liking them
Because walking in town at night makes an interesting sound
Because Italy’s piazzas are reception rooms, waiting rooms, markets, meeting places, catwalks and gyms
Because we have elderly buildings in need of love and maintenance
Because when you see someone clutching their hands together, there’s a reason. They’re rubbing them and thinking, “OK, what’s next?”
Because we speak English, especially when we’re speaking Italian (è più trendy, baby)
Because we like to confuse people who judge us
Because we know that sometimes people who judge us are right
Because we love exceptions and occasionally remember there are rules
Because we are resilient, and not yet resigned
Because we are convinced nothing is impossible (A monogamous Berlusconi?!)
Because everyone is everyone else’s rival, but we’re all in it together
Because governing Italians is like herding cats (but cats have more personality than sheep)
Because the streets offer a wide range of faces. It’s hard to feel different when no one else looks the same
Because we have a sense of humor. And snicker at people who don’t
Because now and again our jaws drop, but we pick them up again
Because at least some of the time, we are what others would like to be, but don’t dare
Because Italians women know
100. Because we keep smiling no matter what
(Translated by Giles Watson)
If you enjoyed it, here you can find the entire list.
Finally I would like to point you out a few events over the weekend in Lucca and around. Let's start!
on Friday night at Santa Maria Forisportam church at 21, free entrance for the concert Music and Joy more than one hundred young people will perform. The Orchestra is composed by Lucchese students of Boccherini Conservatory and by the Carducci. Middle School. The first part of evening will be dedicated to pieces by B.Fraser, Carlo Alberto Valenti, Heitor Villalobos, Andre Lloyd Webber and Edward Elgar. Instead the second part will have also the choir joining the orchestra to perform some pieces taken from the opera The Little Sweep by Benjamin Britten.
if you are available on Saturday evening, then do not miss the second appointment with the Angeli Custodi concerts: Melologhi by Franz Liszt, piano and a telling voice. Great location and great music. For tickets and more info, please check here
Mozart will be the protagonist of the concert at the Giglio Theatre on Saturday at 21.00. Alexander Lonquich will conduct the orchestra.
For instance, on Sunday you can enjoy a walk in town browsing the Arts&Crafts Market in Piazza San Giusto (it is even on Saturday, I've written about this market on a previous post) or maybe rent a bike, cycle till the river path and on the way back stop at the May Traditional Fair/Market in Borgo Giannotti, just outside the wall. 100 stalls selling clothes, shoes, kitchenware, accessories and much more... If you have burned enough calories or you are a gelato fan, since that you are in that are do not miss Fuori dal Centro ice cream shop.
If you look for a quiet secret spot or you would like to discover new corners Lucca, on Sunday there is Exclusive Tuscany (10-13 15-19) some of the most beautiful palazzo in town will open for free their doors to show their hidden green gardens. How many times have you seen that garden from the walls and you wondered how you could get there just to have a look...or maybe you even did not know that behind that plain palace there was such a rich garden!
This event involves many the noble residences and villas in Tuscany, so if you are planning to go to Florence, Pisa, Siena even there you will find it. Please check this map for the venue in the other Tuscan cities.
Regarding Lucca, inside the walls you can visit the following gardens: Villa Niemack, Via dei Bacchettoni 25 Giardino Elisa, Via Elisa 54 Palazzo Massoni, via dell'Angelo Custode 24 Palazzo Busdraghi, Via Busdraghi 7 Palazzo Guinigi Magrini, Via Fillungo 207 Palazzo Brancoli-Pantera, via Vittorio Veneto 44
If you are already in Lucca maybe walking around San Frediano's church and the Amphitheater, you have noticed that something is going on... What are these workers doing?
They are arranging a beautiful flower carpet in front of the church and a flower market in the roman square that will start on Fri, 25th April to celebrate a special personality in town: Saint Zita. If you have not meet her yet, go inside the church and you will see her in the first chapel on your right as soon as you come in. There she is in a glass case on the main altar, surrounded by paintings to highlight her miracles and the most important episodes of her life. The lucchese inhabitants are still very attached to her. She is the copatron saint of the city and there will be a Mass to commemorate her the day she died April 27, 1278 but also the flower and plan market. Why flowers you are probably wondering? Because one of the miracle she performed was to transform the breadcrumbs and food leftover hidden in the her apron in many many beautiful daffodils.
Do not miss the market as there are some amazing flower decorations! Then if you are looking for a unique souvenir from Lucca, something to remind you this holiday go to the Arts&Crafts Marketin San Giusto's square (April, 25-26-27). Here you will find lot of ideas, all absolutely hand made and original: jewels, ceramic, leather, pictures, clothes, home accessories etc... I remember last year a guest came especially for this market, that takes place the last weekend of the month, so that she could buy all her Christmas presents here!
It can seem too much of a coincidence but this weekend we will also celebrate two different Liberation/Independence day.
The first one, on April 25th, it is more connected with the Italian history. April 25, 1945 it is generally considered the end of the World War II in our country, the end of the German/Nazi occupation (on that day the American troops released Milan and Turin). Since 1946 it ha been proclaimed public holiday: so offices, banks, schools, factories will be closed. I believe that most of the stores in Lucca will be opened, at least in the afternoon. But if you have to catch a train or a bus make sure you check the right schedule. For the first time in Lucca, this year, there will be a cooperation to realize a WarResistance Itineray. If you interested in this subject you will find in town in Via Sant'Andrea the Liberation Museum, which is slowly reopening with new sections. (Time: 10-13 and 14-19), in Borgo a Mozzano instead you can find the open air museum of the Gothic Line (Time 10-13): the fortifications, bunkers, tunnels, emplacements and anti-tank defense built by the German army. Finally, if you happen to be in this area, near Barga, there is the Sommocolonia Museum (time 10-13 and afternoon). This village is known for the Christmas Battle, the only battle fought in the Serchio Valley. The movie director Spike Lee got inspired by this event for his film Miracle at St.Anna's in 2008. The allies were stopped in a long action by the German troops for almost the entire winter season, they will have to wait for the spring to be able to cross the Apennines mountains and reach the north of Italy. The second Liberation celebrated this weekend is related to the history of the city. And you are very lucky to be here if you like medieval festivals!
It is called Domenica in Albis, as it is the first Sunday after Easter. April 8th, 1369 (first Sunday after Easter) marked the end of the Pisan Domination thanks to the Emperor Charles IV. From that moment the word LIBERTAS was placed on the city red and white coat of arms and a little bit everywhere. They will follow 430 years of independent and autonomous Republic, till Napoleon's arrival, and this will make the most of what Lucca is today.
Here is the program for Sunday,take a note: 10.00 Historical Parade (flag wavers, drummers and medieval characters) on the main street to the Cathedral to attend the Mass at 10.30. At then end of the Mass, the Ordination Ceremony for the Gonfalonier of the district according to the 1370 Statute (Lucca was divided in three districts, called Terziere, likewise the Contrada in Siena). 14.30 Outisde the St. Peter's Bulwark (close to Porta Elisa or Porta San Jacopo) a great event: TheNational Medieval Crossbow tournament. It is amazing!
16.00 Historical Parade till St. Michele's square - Announcements Reading and the parade will continue to St.Martin's square where there will be two flag wavers shows, then back to St. Frediano 17.45 Changing the Guard at Saint Zita, drums greeting and final flag wavers show.
If you need to do some activity, then you will find at the San Frediano Bulwark, the Lucca International Golf Open Pitch & Putt (Sat 26 and Sun 27) There will be competitions, but also the chance to learn and try for free this sport with instructors on the walls. After the workout in the Real Collegio you can find some relax with a winetasting, gala dinner, cocktails, an exhibition and much more...
In case you will rather do something else in the surrounding area you can find: - Enolia in Seravezza on Sat&Sun, if you do not have a car you can take a train to Forte dei Marmi and then there will be a free shuttle bus to the event. Inside the Medici Palace you can taste several Extra Virgin Olive Oils produced all over Italy, you can do an evo tasting course to learn the many features or you can simply enjoy many typical products as salumi, cheese, bread and so on. Even this year a new product will be introduced: I Servanti, cold cuts preserved with wax. - if you are passionate about white wines, do not missMontecarlo White Wines at Palazzo Pellegrini-Carmignani in Montecarlo from 15 o'clock on Saturday and Sunday. - the last suggestion is the Marcia delle Ville, on Sunday 27, an incredible itinerary (3.5, 7, 10, 16, 23, 28km you can choose your favourite distance) discovering the most beautiful villas in the lucchese countryside: Mansi, Torrigiani, Lazzareschi, Reale, Guinigi and now and then you will have places to rest and to eat something. Art, nature, food, markets and some workout... any better idea? Have fun in Lucca!
I don’t
remember when it was the last time I went to the Carnival in Viareggio. Let’s say that it was a thing that I did not
miss so much.
When I was a child, my mum and my grandfather used to take me
there every year and I have a lot of great memories and pictures, apart those
where I was dressed as a Sardinian man (the folk, typical costume from the region of
Sardinia, where my mum comes from), not even the female version, but the male
one!
So you can
imagine how it was disappointing! Nobody had a clue of what my dress meant and
even if I was asked about it, nobody still could not really understand. All
these kids dressed as superheroes, animals, fairies and princesses… and me? A
proud Sardinian!
That's me! :)
Anyway, I
had a great time especially when I
grew up and that dress did not fit me anymore! ;) So I became a space woman, a
clown and I enjoyed it so much!
Last
Sunday, after many years, thanks to a lovely sunny day I decided to go back to
the Carnival and what a surprise!
I did not
have a costume this time, even if the atmosphere is so funny and happy, that
you feel very tempted to put on a silly fluo wig on your head and start to
dance following the parade.
The
Carnival in Viareggio has a very long tradition
for more information, I suggest you to read here Carnival Viareggio website
You have probably
heard about the Venice Carnival, ok,
that’s beautiful as well and worth to see, but if you are looking for something
more fun and local, Viareggio is the
right place! A must!
The most
special thing about it is the floats
parade. The float is made mainly in papier
mache (water, glue, chalk and paper). There is a competition so there are 3
categories, they are incredibly huge
works of art. They can reach up to 20
meters and they parade along the seaside for about 3kms, there are people
on them dancing and singing!
Guess who is the main character of this float?
They are
designed, projected and realized by what we call the Mastro Carraio (the float master). Each float needs almost a year
to be prepared. Usually they are inspired by the present time: politicians, celebrities, actual issues as the war,
the racism, the environment etc… represented in a satirical and irreverent way.
That’s maybe one of the reason why foreigners, tourists do not enjoy it so
much, because sometimes you do not get the message, as you do not know that
Italian politician or artist.
However, I
am sure you will be amazed by these pictures
and you will want to know more about it…and you can be satisfied coming to
Carnival next time, going to the museum and citadel to see and touch where
these floats are made.
Revolution by Cinquini brothers.
The dreams catcher by Franco Malfatti
Children of a Lesser God "Somebody to Love" by Roberto Vannucci
A tank full of... Happiness by Breschi Massimo
The dreams stealer by Politi S. and Borri P.
I am pretty sure, you can recognize him very well...
Does he look like as a well known Italian premier, doesn't he?
Anyway, he is just a detail of my favourite one: The drowned peninsula by Bonetti brothers.
So which one is your favourite? You can find more pictures:
And search on Instagram #carnevaleviareggio14 #carrocarnevale #maschera #viareggio
Ps: If you
come to Lucca in August, you might
have a chance to see the floats parade as they organize a Summer Carnival, please ask for more information to Debora or
Paola.
I have never heard about this festival, maybe it is the first edition but it sounds very interesting: Histrionika Lucca 2014: street artists as jugglers, musicians, clowns, acrobats, puppeteers will meet in the basement of San Colombano bastion, just under the walls on Saturday from 5 till 11 pm. 
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