And even September is going towards the end, you could not be in a better place to welcome the Autumn season, just walking on the walls you will have a great view over the mountains and the turning colours of the leaves, the chilly pure air in the morning and that lukewarm sun during the day...
After your daily trips and explorations, enjoy a glass of wine and some food at the Enoteca Calasto in piazza San Giovanni and listen to some great young Opera Singers on Friday starting at 8.30 pm.
Markets are on even this weekend:
the local weekly mixed market in Via dei Bacchettoni on Saturday morning
the lovely Arts&Crafts Market in Piazza San Giusto on Sat&Sun will give you the opportunity to meet many artisans and some cute objects great for your presents of this holiday in Lucca
the last traditional fair market on Sunday all day in Borgo Giannotti district to end the September Lucchese celebrations
Not interested in shopping?
On Saturday afternoon from 3 till 8pm, twelve artists will open the doors of their studios, ateliers so you can browse the secrets of painting, photography and sculpture.
An interesting event is dedicated to Fashion, Cars and Giacomo Puccini:
a fashion show, a catwalk for the new collection of the local designer Piero Ricci, the models will walk in front of the Maestro's statue (Piazza Cittadella) on Saturday from 5.30 pm
The Giglio Theatre has offered some precious japanese kimono worn for Madame Butterfly, realized by Catherine Voeffray for the anniversary of the opera.
In case you are interested, the event is free but you need to book in advance your seat at the Puccini Museum ticket office on Friday (9.30-6.30).
On Sunday instead still in the same square, the Lancia Lamboda car will be in exhibition for all day. That is the last car bought by Giacomo Puccini in 1924, it could reach the speed of 125 km/h.
For your Saturday night a couple of ideas: - the free jazz concert "Waiting for Lucca Jazz 2014" at Palazzo Ducale at 6pm (Piazza Napoleone), it is even a chance to see the interior, the rooms which usually are closed ;) - the National Museums, Palazzo Mansi and Villa Guinigi are doing a late night opening. Free entrance from 7.30 till 11.30 pm On Sunday afternoon, it will be the Lucchese Crossbow and Archery team to say goodbye to this edition of the September Lucchese on Sunday competing for the First San Michele Trophy. The musicians, medieval costumes and flag throwers will depart from Via dei Bacchettoni at 3.pm to parade through the central main street to arrive in Piazza Guidiccioni where the archery competition will start at 3.30pm.
I know it is the end of the summer and for most of the people this means back to work, to school and to the daily routine but the Lucchese people have one more reason to put off the arrival of the Autumn and you are very lucky to be in Lucca this month, because the city will be magical...
Markets of any kinds will be all around, concerts, exhibitions, competitions and the amusement park, the funfair outside the walls... but the main big event will be on the night of September 13th: The Luminara of The Holy Face (Il Volto Santo), an incredible candlelight religious procession through the medieval streets and amazing fireworks at the end.
It is a very special day, you will feel the identity of Lucca and its inhabitants. Not only the parish churches are coming to pay homage to the legendary crucifix but also the mayors from all the surrounding villages, the medieval costumes, the representatives of the local banks, offices, lawyers, artisans, policemen, soldiers, the Lucchese people emigrated all over and more... so just to give you and idea that the parade is going to be long long and long.
And wherever they will pass, the palaces will be lightened by a myriad of candles. I am sure you have noticed the buzz around town in the last few days with the cranes assembling the iron frames around the windows, the doors and the arches...just imagine how it is going to be in the dark!
The procession will start at 20.00 o'clock from San Frediano's church and then will cross Via Fillungo, Piazza San Michele, Via Vittorio Veneto, Piazza Napoleone and it will end at St. Martin's Cathedral. This is the route, you can decide the follow the long procession or you can simply stay along the main street or in a square. Be prepared because it is going to be very busy everywhere!!
Once the parade will arrive at the Cathedral, there will be the Blessing and the Mottetone will be played: a mottetto with 8 voices, instruments, two trumpets and two horns composed by Giacomo Puccini's great grand father. For you it will be time to run back to the high terrace of your apartment or to the walls (between San Donato's gate to Santa Maria's gate - orange line on the map above) to see the wonderful show of the fireworks at 23.30.
The Settembre Lucchese is traditionally important for its markets from Saturday till the end of the month you will find a small one in Piazza Napoleone. On Sunday (Sept 14th) all day long the entire district of Borgo Giannotti, just outside Porta Santa Maria, will have a great fair.
Here do as the locals... grab a piece of Croccante (it is a nougat made usually with almond and caramel or a Bombolone/doughnut :)
My dears fashion and shopping addicted Villa Bottini is your must do this weekend, here you can find Fashion in Flair, an exhibition with the best Made in Italy for clothes, jewellery, shoes and furniture.
If you get very thirsty do not forget that under the Palazzo Pretorio in Piazza San Michele everyday you can find Lucca winetasting with all the main local producers.
Really, you could not choose a better time to stay in Lucca!
This will be a long weekend for the Italians, most of them if the weather will be good, they will decide to leave the city for a trip nearby or to start the sunbathing season in one of the closest beaches...so you might fight the city completely empty of Lucchese and full of tourists.
On June 2nd we celebrate the Republic Day, this it falls on Monday and so that's why there is the chance to have some days off. Banks, offices, post and schools will be closed, but do not worry all the restaurants and some groceries stores will be opened. If you plan to use the public transport, bus or train, remember that they run on Sunday service and you might find some traffic on the roads.
The meaning of the day goes back to 1946, when through a referendum Italy had to decide to be a monarchy or a republic, so it is a similar day to the American 4th of July.
For a few years the celebrations have been canceled, it was an ordinary working day. Then thanks to the president, Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, it has been revalued. He believed that the Italians needed to consider a little bit more their history and especially to give them a stronger patriotic feeling.
Let's say that the major event takes place in Rome which is a military parade dedicated each year to a theme. The Frecce Tricolori (literally, the Tricolour Arrows) will fly in the sky for a great aerobatic demonstration.
Recently because of the economic crisis and the spending review, the celebrations were reduced, there was a big discussion how necessary and important it is to spend so much public money for a day.
Let's see what they are going to do this year! Usually in the morning after 10, the first national channel RAI broadcasts the event.
Even here in Lucca there will be some celebrations in Cortile degli Svizzeri, that is just inside the Palazzo Ducale in Napoleon's square.
The city centre, Piazza Napoleone, will host for the first time the Lucca Vegan Festival: shows, market and meetings dedicated to this world and some restaurants will offer a special menus on these days May 31, June 1st and 2nd.
If you happen to be in this area, on Saturday night at 21.00, there will be a concert, which is part of the event Sinfonia a Palazzo. The Bruchsal Orchestra composed by 55 musicians will perform a tribute to Sonja Pahor. Free entrance for the event located in the Ademollo Room
Instead if you want to do as the locals, move towards the seaside in Versilia, do not forget your sun lotion and if it gets too hot, you can go shopping at one of the best market for designers, brands and much more in the nearby:
Here the high class ladies from all over Italy come quite often during the summer to find the best bargains
A more classical market is the Antique Market in Pietrasanta (Sunday June 1st 9-19). It is an easy trip by train from Lucca and you will discover a beautiful village which considered a contemporary Athens. Many artists come to work here in the marble and bronze workshops, just here they can find the most skillful and experienced stone workers.
Some days ago I found on my door mat a free copy of a famous and old Italian newspaper, Il Corriere della Sera. Then I noticed they were a little bit everywhere in town, I do not really know the reason, maybe just advertising. It is a special edition with a positive message dedicated to Italy and to the Italians that are struggling to make something of their life, that are having success in business or in their personal life.
A journalist Beppe Severgnini, which also writes for the New York Times, has just recently made a kind of survey online and has selected 100 reasons we are happy to be Italians and to love Italy.
It is still a difficult period for everybody in the world because of the economic crisis and other matters. I do not know what your media reports you about Italy, but anyway I am almost sure that it is not an idyllic picture.
I would like to share with you some of these reasons to make you smile, laugh and reflect and be happy to have come to visit a beautiful country.
Because we’re intelligent, when we’re not too smart for our own good
Because we’re intuitive, if we can avoid being superficial
Because we’re direct, although we can be impulsive
Because we’re unpredictable, as long as we’re not careless
Because no one else is so skillful at turning a crisis into a party
We have good manners and do good things (unfortunately we struggle to translate them into good conduct)
Because we have good taste. We instinctively recognize beauty
Because, now and again, we put aesthetics before ethics. It’s wrong, but it’s fun to watch
Because we’re interesting. Tourists, business travelers and Angel Merkel are never bored with Italians around.
Because people everywhere look at you. In Italy, they see you
Because the countryside is a sentimental education (north)
Because life can be uphill and downhill (center)
Because the world is a colorful idea (south)
Because history left its mark
Because Milan is our America, the land of opportunity
Because Trieste is the south of the north, the north of the south, the east of the west and the west of the east
Because Venice makes tourists think they’re poets
Because Genoa smiles and shows her teeth to the sea
Because Florence and Turin have woken up
Because Naples and Bari turn their backs on each other, respectfully
Because Calabria’s heat is exhilarating
Because in Sicily the shortest line between two points is an arabesque (with thanks to Ennio Flaiano)
Because Sardinia has a huge heart and immense patience
Because there is a north and a south, just like in the United States. Look up Scarlett O’Hara in Matera. She might be called Samantha, but she’ll be there
Because on some days, the Lombardy sky is bluer than the Italian national team’s jersey
Because we have our head in Europe, our midriff exposed and our feet dangling in the sea
Because summer’s hot and winter’s cold so we can cool off or warm up, and complain
Because we have lindens in our gardens, firs in the mountains and poppies in the fields.
Because at a certain time of year, the Alps slip off their cloak of snow and let you take a good look
Because soccer is a sport, now and again
Because everybody has played soccer
Because the flavors of our ice cream are almost metaphysical – puffo (smurf), amarissimo (as bitter as it gets), basil
Because life goes on in trains; albeit slowly, if it’s a local service
Because in airports at dawn, Italy looks like a quiet, tidy country
Because not all outdoor entertainment is entertaining, but they’re all outdoor
Because we can dance at parties without getting drunk
Because in Italian hotels, they know who you are, and remember
Because our restaurants are staffed by men and women, not robots
Because we have sea, mountains, hills, plains, romantic towns, fragrant islands, fast-flowing rivers and great lakes. Obviously, we don’t have a Grand Canyon or Great Wall. But we’re working on that
Because Italians have painted, sculpted, narrated, sung, acted, furnished and clothed life
Because we discovered America by chance
Because ancient Rome was a great power and modern Rome can be great fun
Because Italian families are hotels, restaurants, banks, insurance companies, kindergartens and care homes for the elderly (they even survive Family Day)
Because Americans go into therapy, but we sit and talk with our kids during dinner
Because we put bread, love and imagination on the table
Because we have taught the world how to eat. Well, perhaps not the whole world, but certainly the French, the British and the Americans
Because we have converted the planet to cappuccino, and in Italy no one gets refused a coffee
Because we invented the pizza, the Vespa, the Fiat 500, the Olivetti Lettera 22 typewriter and coats for women. When we keep things simple, nobody does things better
Because plenty of people criticize us, but everyone copies us
Because our country churches are better than some defenders of the faith
Because we have Europe’s youngest head of government and who knows what he’ll get up to
Because we have Europe’s oldest President and we all know what he has accomplished
Because sometimes we fly the flag back to front (red to the left?), but we still love it
Because we draft laws so complicated we sometimes forget to observe them
Because we are overindulgent with crooks and swindlers, but we spot them right away
Because we have The Great Beauty that won an Oscar and do the little goodnesses that make the world go round
Because we have a national health service, public schools and the Carabinieri
Because doctors, nurses, teachers and police officers work hard for little reward
Because there’s always someone trying to keep someone else’s spirits up
Because we only turn on the air con when it’s needed
Because we can think with our hands
Because the fields never look bored
Because around Bologna and Modena, we make romantic precision automobiles
Because Veneto is our Texas
Because they copy our coffee and pizza in Memphis, but we make their Jeeps in Melfi.
Because the undergrads at Pavia study under magnolias and wisteria
Because every laboratory in the world has a computer, a green plant and an Italian (but send us the Italian back some time)
Because some small towns along the main roads are so ugly you can’t help liking them
Because walking in town at night makes an interesting sound
Because Italy’s piazzas are reception rooms, waiting rooms, markets, meeting places, catwalks and gyms
Because we have elderly buildings in need of love and maintenance
Because when you see someone clutching their hands together, there’s a reason. They’re rubbing them and thinking, “OK, what’s next?”
Because we speak English, especially when we’re speaking Italian (è più trendy, baby)
Because we like to confuse people who judge us
Because we know that sometimes people who judge us are right
Because we love exceptions and occasionally remember there are rules
Because we are resilient, and not yet resigned
Because we are convinced nothing is impossible (A monogamous Berlusconi?!)
Because everyone is everyone else’s rival, but we’re all in it together
Because governing Italians is like herding cats (but cats have more personality than sheep)
Because the streets offer a wide range of faces. It’s hard to feel different when no one else looks the same
Because we have a sense of humor. And snicker at people who don’t
Because now and again our jaws drop, but we pick them up again
Because at least some of the time, we are what others would like to be, but don’t dare
Because Italians women know
100. Because we keep smiling no matter what
(Translated by Giles Watson)
If you enjoyed it, here you can find the entire list.
Finally I would like to point you out a few events over the weekend in Lucca and around. Let's start!
on Friday night at Santa Maria Forisportam church at 21, free entrance for the concert Music and Joy more than one hundred young people will perform. The Orchestra is composed by Lucchese students of Boccherini Conservatory and by the Carducci. Middle School. The first part of evening will be dedicated to pieces by B.Fraser, Carlo Alberto Valenti, Heitor Villalobos, Andre Lloyd Webber and Edward Elgar. Instead the second part will have also the choir joining the orchestra to perform some pieces taken from the opera The Little Sweep by Benjamin Britten.
if you are available on Saturday evening, then do not miss the second appointment with the Angeli Custodi concerts: Melologhi by Franz Liszt, piano and a telling voice. Great location and great music. For tickets and more info, please check here
Mozart will be the protagonist of the concert at the Giglio Theatre on Saturday at 21.00. Alexander Lonquich will conduct the orchestra.
For instance, on Sunday you can enjoy a walk in town browsing the Arts&Crafts Market in Piazza San Giusto (it is even on Saturday, I've written about this market on a previous post) or maybe rent a bike, cycle till the river path and on the way back stop at the May Traditional Fair/Market in Borgo Giannotti, just outside the wall. 100 stalls selling clothes, shoes, kitchenware, accessories and much more... If you have burned enough calories or you are a gelato fan, since that you are in that are do not miss Fuori dal Centro ice cream shop.
If you look for a quiet secret spot or you would like to discover new corners Lucca, on Sunday there is Exclusive Tuscany (10-13 15-19) some of the most beautiful palazzo in town will open for free their doors to show their hidden green gardens. How many times have you seen that garden from the walls and you wondered how you could get there just to have a look...or maybe you even did not know that behind that plain palace there was such a rich garden!
This event involves many the noble residences and villas in Tuscany, so if you are planning to go to Florence, Pisa, Siena even there you will find it. Please check this map for the venue in the other Tuscan cities.
Regarding Lucca, inside the walls you can visit the following gardens: Villa Niemack, Via dei Bacchettoni 25 Giardino Elisa, Via Elisa 54 Palazzo Massoni, via dell'Angelo Custode 24 Palazzo Busdraghi, Via Busdraghi 7 Palazzo Guinigi Magrini, Via Fillungo 207 Palazzo Brancoli-Pantera, via Vittorio Veneto 44
My apologies for the absence in the last couple of weeks from this blog, the season is starting and it is good to see you coming in apartments and villas here, but there's a lot of maintenance works involved in the backstage after the winter.
Many of you will be spending Easter in Lucca and I thought that it could be nice and useful to know what's happening in town and around.
First of all, being mainly a religious feast, let's start with the celebrations:
Holy (Maundy) Thursday April, 17th is the day that Christ celebrated the Last Supper with the Apostles. The Mass will be held at the Cathedral (San Martino) at 6.30pm and it will include the washing of the feet ceremony. The pray will continue till 11pm in the Santissimo Sacramento chapel. There will be another Mass in San Michele's church at 9pm.
Good Friday April, 18th the Stations of the Cross (Way of the Cross, we call it in latin Via Crucis) will start at 8.45 pm from San Salvatore Square and it will go through Via Fillungo to reach San Frediano's church.
Easter Eve, Saturday April 19th Holy Mass at 9.30 pm at the Saint Martin's Cathedral.
Easter Sunday, April 20th Holy Mass at 10.30 am at the Saint Martin's Cathedral held by the Archbishop.
Easter Monday, April 21th Holy Mass at 11 am Saint Michele's church.
Please pay attention that in these churches opening hours can change, you may find them closed or just opened for confessions, so they won't allow visitors inside.
If you have a car and feel brave to drive some mountain roads, on Thursday night, go to Castiglione di Garfagnana, for The Crocioni Procession. That can be a real and strong experience! After the mass, people will follow in a procession a man dressed as Jesus Christ, he will have chains at his bare feet and a heavy cross to bear on his shoulder. Nobody knows the identity of the man, apart from the priest: a long white hood will cover his head. Before the mass he will be hidden in a huge wardrobe. He will come out for the procession representing the biblical walk with the three falls, the roman soldiers and the apostles. The torch light, the drum rolls, the chains noise will make it very real and suggestive even because the village is a perfect medieval hamlet. At the end the man will go back inside the wardrobe, two soldiers will check and only later when everybody will be gone he will come out. You may wonder who wants to do such a thing, usually is a local person who makes a vow or he does it as a proof of regret.
On Easter Eve and Sunday, we have the tradition to bring the eggs (chocolate or boiled) and the pasimata to be blessed by the priest. This is what you will find on the altar.
Pasimata is a typical sweet bread of Lucca, Garfagnana and Versilia that usually is prepared only for Easter, ask for it at the bakeries and pastries shop in town. It can be with raisin, almonds or candied fruit. The pastry smells of anise seeds and it is soft and tasty. It has a very long rising time. It can have the shape of a loaf of bread or it can be as thick as a panettone. Of course, you will have to enjoy it with a glass of Vinsanto (Holy wine) and dip it in!
Most of the restaurants will be opened on Easter Sunday at lunch and dinner.
At lunch time, maybe it will be better to book a table, we do not all celebrate at home, so they might be busy. Some of them will do aspecial menu (lamb and kid/goat are the main traditional courses) they will show it outside on a notice board some days before, go and have a look if you are interested.
If you plan to cook at your fantastic holiday home, then go shopping as soon as you can! Groceries, supermarkets and bakeries will be shut on Sunday and most of them even on Monday.
During the weekend (Sat&Sun) you can spend some hours in one of the best Tuscan antiques market! It is quite big, the stalls will be all around in Giglio's square, Cathedral & San Giovanni's square, San Giusto's square, Via del Gallo and Bernardini's square from 9am till 6pm . Old books, prints, medals, stamps, vintage clothes and accessories, furniture, cutlery, china and unusual tools could be a unique souvenir from Lucca and an experience you should not miss! I love it!
Instead, this year from 18th till 21st in Corso Garibaldi (from 9am till 9pm) there will be a new market dedicated to Sardinia products: food, wine and artisan. I do not know exactly what you can find as it is the first time, but I am sure you will find delicatessen as cold cuts, great pecorino cheese, Mirto a typical liqueur, the carasau a very thin and crispy bread, Cannonau wine, sweets as seadas and biscuits. So if you forget to buy something at the grocery store, here's the solution!
If you have not visited yet the national Museums: Palazzo Mansi e Villa Guinigi will be opened in the afternoon (1.30 till 7.30pm) on Sunday and Monday. The first one is a beautiful example of a 16th century lucchese noble residence with frescoes and an amazing wedding bedroom, plus there's a painting gallery, too. Now the masterpiece is in Florence part of the Portormo and Rosso Fiorentino exhibition at Palazzo Strozzi.
For music lovers, on Sunday at 9.15 pm at the San Giuseppe Oratory (next to the Cathedral) the second concert of the Easter and Pentecost (Whitsunday) Festival will take place. Beatrice Venezi at the piano will accompany the sopranos Fabiola Formiga and Melissa di Biasio. The program is dedicated to Tuscan opera composers: Puccini of course and then Catalani, Luporini and Mascagni, as well.
For info and bookings: tickets can be purchased at the San Giovanni's Church (10-6pm, every day) or you can write an email to info@musick.it. Price 20€ first sector; 15€ second sector.
The Italian tradition expects that on Easter Monday, Pasquetta, you have to do a picnic, a merendella/merendina at the beach in Viareggio, on the mountains in Garfagnana or in the lucchese countryside. If it is a sunny day there will be a lot of people everywhere! So you if would like to respect the tradition, a barbecue picnic can be arranged for you in a local vineyard, please get in contact with Paolaby Friday.
At last I would like to mention theAzalea Festival in Borgo a Mozzano, (Sun&Mon), you can reach the village by train from Lucca, check first the times as it is public holiday or better if you have a car it is less than 30 mins drive. Do not miss the Devil's bridge!
Hopefully, I have given you some ideas how to spend these days here in Lucca, so do not forget to tell me if my suggestions were good enough!
On Sunday afternoon, it will be the Lucchese Crossbow and Archery team to say goodbye to this edition of the September Lucchese on Sunday competing for the First San Michele Trophy. 
